There is nothing more frustrating
than a horse that anticipates your every move. Does your horse: jog the minute
you take up your reins in walk? Canter if your seat stays in the saddle for
more than two strides in trot? Drop down into trot from canter if you so much
as move in the saddle or on the reins? If he does then there’s a strong chance
that what you’re doing to avoid the problem is probably making it worse.
The trouble with anticipation is
your horse isn’t actually listening to what you’re saying. At first he’s just
trying to do as you ask before you’ve asked. The problem is as he happily bounces
off into canter before you’ve had a chance to put your leg on he’s failed to
realise that you were actually going to ask for counter canter – or even walk! Whilst
you don’t want to crush his enthusiasm wouldn’t it be nice if you could get him
to wait before he jumped in feet first?
That initial enthusiasm soon
becomes tension as you try your hardest to ‘sneak up on him’. In walk you
shuffle your fingers up the reins, in trot you sit for half a stride and bang
your leg on before he has a chance to go and in canter every move you make is
preceded with a hearty squeeze to keep him going. Sound familiar?
It’s easy to think your horse is
over confident the way he plunges head first into everything before he’s asked
but what he really needs is for you to slow down and make things clearer so he
starts to really listen to what you have to say. The more you try to avoid
things the more confused he becomes. And that always causes tension.
The clearer your aids are the
easier it will be for your horse to understand you. Check out this post - http://schoolyourhorse.blogspot.com/2011/01/riding-perfect-canter-transition.html
before you try these exercises so you’re absolutely clear how to use both legs
in your canter aid.
Check out - http://schoolyourhorse.blogspot.com/2010/12/other-way-of-stopping.html
for ways to slow down without depending on your reins.
Your legs are there to ask for changes
in pace and more energy not just to keep him going. Check this out if you’re
using your leg more than you should - http://schoolyourhorse.blogspot.com/2010/12/lazy-rider.html
Use a 20m circle at E/B. Your horse
will have to pay more attention to you because he doesn’t have the fence to
guide him. In any pace ride a spiral into the centre of the circle so you
finish with a 10m circle in the middle before you spiral back out again.
This spiral will keep your horse focused
because it’s something different and the tight curve will mean he has to use
his hocks. When he concentrates he’ll start to relax. The spiral is the main
part of this exercise. Don’t come off it for the rest of the session. On it you
can work between all three paces.
It’s important that you ride a true
line NOT a leg yield in or out. You may find your horse tries to drift out to
the bigger circle. Keep your hands together and the contact even in both reins
to keep his shoulders together as one unit and straight in front of you. Use
both legs in their usual place - putting your outside leg back won’t stop a
horse drifting out – driving his quarters behind his shoulders will.
For this exercise your trot work
should be done in sitting trot. This is really important because it will allow your
horse to relax and stop thinking you’re about to ask for canter. There’s only
one way to learn to sit well and that’s to keep doing it – and relax. The longer
you trot the more your muscles will relax and stop bracing against the
movement. Practice really does make perfect.
Once your horse has accepted the
fact sitting trot doesn’t automatically mean canter – or walk you can start to
introduce transitions between the paces. Take your time. Don’t spring anything
on him suddenly. Make clear movements and be firm with your leg. Remember the
firmer and clearer you are the more control you’ll have.
The tightness of the spiral will
maintain your canter for you. Aim to canter into the middle and back out again
at least three times so it’s continuous. That allows your horse to settle and
get his balance. Make sure you sit up and ride forward with both legs to a
steady contact to help him keep his weight back on his hocks.
Check out this post - http://schoolyourhorse.blogspot.com/2011/10/pull-up-to-ride-forward.html
There are some easy tips on how to change your position to help him.
Practice walking on a long rein and
taking them up again in one fluent movement. Check this out -http://schoolyourhorse.blogspot.com/2011/08/free-walk-on-long-rein-not-off-it.html
There’s absolutely no benefit to you or your horse in shuffling your fingers up
the reins. Lean forward take the contact on the outside rein and then take up
the inside rein – all within two strides and then you’re settled again. Keep
your legs on and don’t back off if he jogs. The answer is to take your reins up
quickly and get your weight in the saddle as soon as you can – not to do it so
he doesn’t feel it!
All these problems can be resolved
if you stop avoiding them. Your horse can feel a fly landing on his back so
there’s no chance of you ever being able to do something that he can’t feel!
Make your movements clear and confident. Let him really hear what you have to
say and then he’ll be able to listen.
Good luck and enjoy your schooling.
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