Finesse or Anticipation?

There is nothing more frustrating than a horse that anticipates your every move. Does your horse: jog the minute you take up your reins in walk? Canter if your seat stays in the saddle for more than two strides in trot? Drop down into trot from canter if you so much as move in the saddle or on the reins? If he does then there’s a strong chance that what you’re doing to avoid the problem is probably making it worse.

The trouble with anticipation is your horse isn’t actually listening to what you’re saying. At first he’s just trying to do as you ask before you’ve asked. The problem is as he happily bounces off into canter before you’ve had a chance to put your leg on he’s failed to realise that you were actually going to ask for counter canter – or even walk! Whilst you don’t want to crush his enthusiasm wouldn’t it be nice if you could get him to wait before he jumped in feet first?

That initial enthusiasm soon becomes tension as you try your hardest to ‘sneak up on him’. In walk you shuffle your fingers up the reins, in trot you sit for half a stride and bang your leg on before he has a chance to go and in canter every move you make is preceded with a hearty squeeze to keep him going. Sound familiar?

It’s easy to think your horse is over confident the way he plunges head first into everything before he’s asked but what he really needs is for you to slow down and make things clearer so he starts to really listen to what you have to say. The more you try to avoid things the more confused he becomes. And that always causes tension.

The clearer your aids are the easier it will be for your horse to understand you. Check out this post - http://schoolyourhorse.blogspot.com/2011/01/riding-perfect-canter-transition.html before you try these exercises so you’re absolutely clear how to use both legs in your canter aid.

Check out - http://schoolyourhorse.blogspot.com/2010/12/other-way-of-stopping.html for ways to slow down without depending on your reins.

Your legs are there to ask for changes in pace and more energy not just to keep him going. Check this out if you’re using your leg more than you should - http://schoolyourhorse.blogspot.com/2010/12/lazy-rider.html

Use a 20m circle at E/B. Your horse will have to pay more attention to you because he doesn’t have the fence to guide him. In any pace ride a spiral into the centre of the circle so you finish with a 10m circle in the middle before you spiral back out again.

This spiral will keep your horse focused because it’s something different and the tight curve will mean he has to use his hocks. When he concentrates he’ll start to relax. The spiral is the main part of this exercise. Don’t come off it for the rest of the session. On it you can work between all three paces.

It’s important that you ride a true line NOT a leg yield in or out. You may find your horse tries to drift out to the bigger circle. Keep your hands together and the contact even in both reins to keep his shoulders together as one unit and straight in front of you. Use both legs in their usual place - putting your outside leg back won’t stop a horse drifting out – driving his quarters behind his shoulders will.

For this exercise your trot work should be done in sitting trot. This is really important because it will allow your horse to relax and stop thinking you’re about to ask for canter. There’s only one way to learn to sit well and that’s to keep doing it – and relax. The longer you trot the more your muscles will relax and stop bracing against the movement. Practice really does make perfect.

Once your horse has accepted the fact sitting trot doesn’t automatically mean canter – or walk you can start to introduce transitions between the paces. Take your time. Don’t spring anything on him suddenly. Make clear movements and be firm with your leg. Remember the firmer and clearer you are the more control you’ll have.

The tightness of the spiral will maintain your canter for you. Aim to canter into the middle and back out again at least three times so it’s continuous. That allows your horse to settle and get his balance. Make sure you sit up and ride forward with both legs to a steady contact to help him keep his weight back on his hocks.

Check out this post - http://schoolyourhorse.blogspot.com/2011/10/pull-up-to-ride-forward.html There are some easy tips on how to change your position to help him.

Practice walking on a long rein and taking them up again in one fluent movement. Check this out -http://schoolyourhorse.blogspot.com/2011/08/free-walk-on-long-rein-not-off-it.html There’s absolutely no benefit to you or your horse in shuffling your fingers up the reins. Lean forward take the contact on the outside rein and then take up the inside rein – all within two strides and then you’re settled again. Keep your legs on and don’t back off if he jogs. The answer is to take your reins up quickly and get your weight in the saddle as soon as you can – not to do it so he doesn’t feel it!

All these problems can be resolved if you stop avoiding them. Your horse can feel a fly landing on his back so there’s no chance of you ever being able to do something that he can’t feel! Make your movements clear and confident. Let him really hear what you have to say and then he’ll be able to listen.

Good luck and enjoy your schooling.

Blow Away Your Winter Blues

Your horse’s temperament will define how best to school him. He’s likely to fall into one of two categories. Is he a hare or a tortoise?

Every rider has their preference. Some like to kick on. It can be nice to feel nothing’s going to happen if you don’t ask for it. Others, however, veer away from the ‘keeps-you-fit’ equine. They’d rather sit still and have a horse that’s raring to go at all times. When it comes to schooling each type responds to a completely different approach. One horse’s entertainment can be another’s worst nightmare.

Energetically challenged? Check out - http://schoolyourhorse.blogspot.com/2010/12/lazy-rider.html

Adrenalin Junkie? Check out – http://schoolyourhorse.blogspot.com/2010/12/other-way-of-stopping.html

So with that in mind are you looking for something to get you through the dark nights of winter? Winter offers little respite from the school during the week. Don’t be a martyr to the cause. A couple of nights schooling is more than enough for any horse. He won’t lose fitness overnight. Two good workmanlike sessions midweek are far more beneficial than riding every night and achieving nothing.

Whatever your horse’s temperament if you’re just looking for something to do check out this page - http://schoolyourhorse.blogspot.com/p/looking-for-something-to-do.html

Tortoise training

The lazy horse requires inspiration. He needs you to get on board every time with enough energy for the pair of you. Everything you do or ask has to be the most exciting thing you’ve ever asked for. BUT your legs should only rest lightly against his sides at all times so he knows you’re there - they should never kick. Do that and he’ll switch off as quickly as you would if someone droned on and on about nothing.

The perfect type of schooling exercises for this type of horse are short, quick bursts of speed or energy. Quick transitions and turns. Serpentines in canter with changes of leg through trot or walk over the centre line. Halt to trot transitions across the school. Halt to canter even. Anything that makes him sit up and listen, get his hocks under his body and inspires him. Even the laziest horse will respond if you’re prepared to meet him halfway. Supply the enthusiasm and you’ll be surprised how much he gives back.

For your own sake remember to take several short breaks to get your breath back. Never allow him to rest for a moment though. Walk on a long rein using regular taps with the whip to maintain his energy. A forward walk can be as motivating for him as a canter – and for you it’s a chance to recharge the batteries.

Taming the Hare

The adrenalin junkie is a different ball game completely. Assuming he’s just sharp – not naughty – you need to be his calming influence. Anything you can do to show him life is dull will help your schooling. Allow this type of horse to switch off and before you know it you’ll have a horse you can get your leg on.

Sharp horses need repetition. Too many sudden changes will only get your horse more excited. Never think a ‘good canter or blast’ will calm him down. It’s the last thing you need to do. He has enough trouble getting rid of pent up adrenalin without making more!

The perfect exercise for this type of horse requires patience. Stick your self on a 20m circle and either change pace or change shape but never both at the same time. That will be too much for his active brain to cope with. Try trotting 20m circles followed by 15m and 10m and back out again. Do that for twenty minutes without changing anything other than the circle size and without even thinking about it you’ll find yourself pushing him forward.

To a sharp horse your leg should be a comfort not a shock. It’s there to ‘hold his hand’ not surprise him. Take your leg off because you think it’s exciting him and he’ll get such a shock when you do put it on that he’ll be off down the school before you can say ‘steady’.

A ‘sharp-naughty’ horse needs something between the two. The most important thing with him is to keep him away from straight lines and too much repetition. He needs to be kept busy without the addition of excitement. This isn’t too difficult to do. Ride serpentines, changes of rein and figures of eight in one pace. Every time you feel him tighten ride a turn across the school or a small circle. Keep his brain full of your ideas and stop him filling it with ones of his own.

Winter is right here now and it’s important to keep yourself inspired. Understanding your horse’s temperament and schooling needs will get you halfway there. Your consistency will do the rest. Never school if you’re in a foul mood. It’s better for both of you if you take the night off. You’ll only spoil things and get off feeling guilty.

When it’s cold, dark and miserable out there it’s important not to lose sight of the reason you’re doing this. It’s your hobby and it’s supposed to be fun! Don’t pressure yourself or your horse into doing anything you don’t want to do. It won’t help you and it certainly won’t do anything for him either.

Good luck and enjoy your schooling.

Your Whole Horse in Your Hands?

Do you sometimes feel as if you’ve got the whole weight of your horse in your hands? Does his head get lower and lower the further you go? The chances are he’s carrying himself on his forehand – or shoulders. He’s not the only horse to do it. It’s a common problem but it’s one that can be easily avoided.  If you know where to look.

When a horse is on the forehand he’s carrying about ¾ of his weight on his shoulders. There are many reasons he might be doing it but only one true cause - he’s not using his hocks correctly.

In walk it’s less obvious. On a road you might hear it when your horse’s front feet hit the ground with more force than his hind feet. He might trip in front more than behind. Because you’re not travelling at speed it probably goes unnoticed. The faster you go the more unbalanced he’ll become.

In trot things feel more obvious. Imagine running down a steep hill. You’d want to put out a hand to stop yourself falling over - right? Your horse will feel the same only he doesn’t have hands. Instead he has a bit in his mouth and attached to it he has your hands! That’s one of the first things you’ll notice about a horse on the forehand – the dead weight in your hands – and no matter how hard you try you won’t be able to get him off them.

In canter your horse will not only be uncomfortable to ride he’ll also be less responsive. The speed of the canter means more of his weight will be falling forwards onto your hands making it difficult for you to turn or vary his speed.

You wouldn’t be the first to think the best way to deal with it is to plug away in trot or canter until your horse sits back on his hocks but before you do just think about this -

When your horse unbalances onto his forehand there’s a strong chance he did it before you started the pace you feel it in. He may well have been trotting around quite nicely before you found yourself cantering the wall of death round the arena. So what happened in between the two? Try looking at your transition.

If your horse is prone to going on his forehand you’ll have heard the phrase ‘ride him uphill’. The theory is sound – you do want to think of his body sitting down at the back and lifting in front. BUT think how you ride when you ride uphill. You lean forward and give your horse his head. Try thinking of riding down a steep hill. Then you’d be sitting right back, pushing his hocks underneath him and holding the contact.

Whether you’re asking for walk to canter or trot to canter your body should remain the same. Your horse will copy exactly what you do. If you tip forward he’ll do the same. Lean further back than you feel comfortable doing. Exaggerate it. This will put all your weight over his hocks and encourage him to sit.

If you keep your hands up in front of you and your contact consistent in both hands then your horse will stay off his shoulders. Your contact contains energy allowing you to drive his hocks under his body.

When you’re asking for canter don’t make the mistake of throwing your hands forward in the hope your horse will go into canter quicker. Actually all you’re doing is throwing him straight onto his shoulders and making his life more difficult. Nag at yourself to keep your fingers closed around the reins as you ask. Then as you put your inside leg on for the strike off keep the contact between your thumb and first finger and relax the other three to allow him to canter.

If this is a regular problem ask your horse for canter going into a corner not on it. The fact you’re not on a bend will mean you’re less inclined to lean to the inside and unbalance him. Riding towards a fence will stop him running into canter and unbalancing himself too.

Before you go remember not to canter for too long! When you’re trying to solve a problem use canter in short bursts so you can concentrate on the quality of the transition and the first few strides. It’s the cause of the problem you need to look at not the end result.

Good luck and enjoy your schooling.

Show them you can Gallop

After a clear round in a working hunter class all riders know they have to do an individual show. Ask them how many paces they need to show and they’ll tell you four. They’re right. Ask most judges how many they see. They’ll tell you three.

The one that’s missing is gallop. It’s hardly surprising is it? When did you ever get taught how to gallop?

Gallop is more than a fast canter. It’s a pace. A pace isn’t a speed. It’s a different pattern of legs. All paces are different. They have different beats to them. Canter has three beats. Gallop has four.

Gallop is different to all other paces because the hind feet both touch the ground before the front feet (i.e. Right Hind, LH, Right Fore, LF). To be able to do this your horse has to be off his shoulder and right back on his hocks.

Your horse’s balance is crucial. If he isn’t on his hocks he can’t gallop. It’s that simple. Any weight over his shoulder will mean he can’t reach under his body with his hind legs. If he can’t do that he’ll put a front leg down with a hind leg to balance himself. That’s canter.

The key to a good show gallop is the transition. You don’t have much room and you can’t build up to it. It’s essential your horse learns to go forward instantly from your aids. It’s the same as any other transition.

Try this -

The first thing you have to do is teach your horse he’s allowed to go forwards. Horses spend much of their time being told to slow down. They live a fairly restrained life. It can be hard to break the habit. When you finally ask them to gallop it can take a while for them to believe you. It also takes time to remind them how their legs should work!

You can introduce your new aids in the school. Canter large and on the short sides use your thigh and knee to slow your horse down. (See The Other Way of Stopping). As you come onto the long side straighten up, relax your knee and lift your seat out of the saddle. Now use both heels to tell your horse to go on. His reaction to your leg must be instant. Expect him to jump off your leg. If he doesn’t back it up with your whip. It’s vital he understands - knee off + lighter seat + leg = go forward.

At no point in this exercise should you let go of your contact. Your reins contain your horse’s energy, creating power not just speed. Without power he can’t accelerate. Drop your contact and he’ll drop his shoulders. If his weight is on his shoulders he’ll find it impossible to get going.

When you ask him to come back to you at the end sit into the saddle and use your knee to slow him. Don’t be too hard with your hand. This will make him tighten his back and you’ll loose the flow of your canter.

You should be able to show a big difference between these two speeds but it still won’t be gallop. To do that you need to get out in a field. You need space.

The bigger the field the better to start with. If there’s a slight incline even better. A hill will help your horse engage his hocks.

The fact you are in a field should make your horse think more forward. Ride the same exercise as you did in the school. This time from a reasonable working canter using your knee to prevent him going too fast until you ask him to gallop.

This time as you turn a corner towards the hill (if you have one) you need to get up off his back, take your knee away and give him a strong nudge with both heels. As he goes forward do the same with your heels on each of the next four strides. This may seem excessive but you need him to understand you really want him to go on.

Remember the mechanics of gallop. Your horse must stay off his shoulders. Your hands are so important. They must stay up and level to keep his shoulders up and together. As you come up out of the saddle be careful not to throw yourself forward. Lighten your seat without leaning over his shoulder. Help him to stay balanced.

What should you expect from a true gallop? A gallop is flatter than a fast canter. It’s smooth. You know you’re going much faster by the things that pass you by but it doesn’t feel as frantic as a fast canter in which your horse’s legs seem to go at 100mph! At the gallop his legs will be at full stretch so they cover as much ground as possible. When you finally achieve it he’ll be giving his all yet it will feel effortless.

Before the shows really get going take time to perfect your gallop. Give the judges what they want to see and you could find yourself at the right end of the line up. Remember, there’s more than one way to school your horse so get out in a field and have a go.

Good luck and enjoy your schooling.

There's More to Schooling than Circles

Be honest. When it comes to schooling are you guilty of doing the same old thing day in day out? Do you think you’ve gone wild if you’ve put in a couple of figures of eight or a 10m circle? Is it any wonder your horse feels a bit flat when you go in the school? This week do him a favour and try something new. It doesn’t have to be difficult. A change of shape could be just the thing to get his attention back on you.

Serpentines are the perfect shape to play with. They’re just a series of half circles joined together with straight lines. The loops should be even. Plan your turns. Make the first too wide and you’ll run out of space for the others.

Horses can fall in or out on the half circles. This means the line across the school will be crooked. Push your elbows into your body, just in front of your sides. As you turn your upper body take your arms round with it. This keeps your hands together which will keep your horse’s shoulders together and stop him drifting one way or the other.

If your horse moves freely forward then you can use your leg to correct him. (If he doesn’t check out Be a Lazy Rider/December) A quick nudge with your outside leg will stop him falling out and the same from your inside leg will stop him falling in.

If your horse drops a shoulder as you turn don’t lift one hand up. Lift both! Raise one hand and he’ll lift up that side of his mouth. If one side of his mouth is higher than the other he’ll tip his head that way. Lift both hands together and push on. This will bring his shoulders up and keep them together.

Contrary to popular belief the definition of serpentine is ‘snake like’. It isn’t; three loops each reaching the side of the arena starting at A and finishing at C! A serpentine can have as many loops as you want and be any size that you want.

Ridden in walk or trot four loop serpentines are an ideal way to change the rein. They’re easy to judge too. Each loop is 10m wide. Starting at one end ride a half 10m circle. Straighten up and ride across the school. As you cross the ¾ line ride another half 10 which will put you onto the E-B line. This gives you exactly half the school in which to ride your last two loops.

Most riders have ridden a three loop serpentine in walk or trot but how about canter? There’s no reason why you can’t as long as you’re prepared and you take your time. Change leg over the centre line. Use canter to trot or canter to walk. Which ever suits you and your horse best. This is your session after all.

Transitions come up quickly in canter so take your time. Break it down onto stages. Ride the first and last loops in canter. Walk or trot the middle. This gives you more time to settle your horse before the next transition. It’s important to get him coming right back to you in the downwards transition. Use your thigh and knee to stop him running away from you. (See The Other Way of Stopping/ Dec) If he rushes you’ll struggle to find space for a transition in the middle loop. It may help to make a few transitions to halt just to back him off a bit.

Add in the middle loop when you’re ready. It doesn’t have to be the same day. You may find it helpful to ride a circle in the loop while you establish your canter. You can lose the circle when you get quicker with your aids. The main thing is you take your time. They can be fun for both horse and rider when you do them well. Rush and flap and you’ll defeat the whole object and spoil all your transitions.

Try riding three or four loop serpentines from the track to the ¾ line. You’ll need a strong outside leg on the middle loop. Your horse will expect to go on to the track.

Starting at A or C ride four loop serpentines from the ¼ to the ¾ line. These are just a succession of half 10m circles joined as you cross the centre line. Three loops are possible but the loops are harder to judge when the shape becomes narrower.

Most riders have ridden circles within the end of each loop. This is great to get your horse’s attention. An even better idea is to ride a 10m circle as you cross the centre line. Now that is guaranteed to make him sit up and listen!

Hopefully now a serpentine will mean more than the standard three loops you usually ride in trot once in a while. Use it to vary your schooling sessions. It will give you and your horse something different to think about. It’s true what they say. A change really is as good as a rest. Have fun.

C3 - Could Try Harder

How often has someone watched you schooling your horse and said “He looks fine … stop worrying.”? You smile but deep down all you really want to do is kill him! From the outside he may well look as if he’s going nicely but you’re on board and you just know he’s not giving you 100%.

This ‘passive evasion’ can be more annoying than bucking or bolting. At least then you can have a full scale row! This is much more subtle. Your horse starts off okay but as your session goes on he gets lower and heavier in your hand. He doesn’t give you quite as much bend as you’d like and he’s not quite active enough behind. You swear you’ve done everything by the book. You’ve checked, softened, half-halted and put your leg on but still he chooses to trot round the school in his own little world.

Tempting as it is to yank on one rein and give him a dig in the ribs you know it’s not the answer. Firstly you know it won’t work. It never does. Secondly (although for a split second you feel so much better) you also know that in half an hour you’ll feel so guilty you’ll end up hanging round his neck apologising!

In cases like this your horse needs something to make him sit up and listen. There’s no point getting wound up. It will only cause tension. Get clever not angry.

Try this -

Ride a 20m circle at E in trot. Get your horse settled and in a steady rhythm. After a few circles he’s bound to think he knows what’s coming and switch off. That’s when you pull out your trump card.

When you cross the centre line change the rein onto a 10m circle. That will get his attention! Ride forward and change the rein back onto the 20m circle. Ride a couple of circles and do it again.

Be careful not to do the same thing each time. Every time you return to the 20m circle do something different. Ask for canter or ride another 10m circle instead of carrying on with the 20m circle. The list is endless. Do what you like. Just keep him guessing.

On a circle at E you have four points. E, B and two as you cross the centre line. Why not ride a 10m circle at each point? You can do the ones at E and B on the same rein and with the other two you have the option to do either rein – or a 10m figure of eight.

10m circles aren’t impossible for any horse to canter as long as you sit up and ride forward. If your horse has his hocks underneath him he can balance no matter how small the circle. From canter vary the transitions you make between changes of rein. Ride canter to walk as you ride onto the 10m circle and canter to trot as you go back to the 20m.

Whilst you want to surprise your horse make sure you’re prepared yourself. Snapping him out of his daydream will sit him back on his hocks and take his weight of his shoulders. Tipping forward or collapsing to one side yourself will defeat the whole object. As you circle or make the change of rein sit up and turn your upper body. Keep your hands level and turn your head so you’re looking in the direction you are going. This will keep your weight balanced which will help him with his.

Any of those exercises can be done in walk, trot or canter. The main thing is you keep things different. Horses are prone to switch off when they’re bored. We’re not always at fault but we are the ones who decide what to do in each session. Before you criticise take a look at your schooling plan. Be honest. Have you got set in your ways? Schooling isn’t boring. Trotting endless circles is. 

Good luck and happy schooling!

Forwards not Downwards.

(suggested reading -  The Other Way of Stopping)


Imagine yourself riding an upward transition. What do you think of first? The chances are you think of putting your leg on. Why wouldn’t you? It’s only natural to put your leg on when you’re going up a pace.

Now think about riding a downwards transition. What comes to mind? Most riders’ first reaction is to sit still. Think of the two or three strides of the actual transition and you’ll realise that at that point you hardly dare breathe let alone push on!

In truth you should use as much leg, if not more, on the downwards transitions as the up. As a horse comes in to a lower pace he needs to sit on his hocks. By doing this he keeps his hips lower than his withers. He’s in an uphill position and he can balance.

It’s important to keep yourself balanced too. Keep your head above your shoulders and sit back. Look straight ahead, not at the ground ten yards ahead. If you look down you’ll take your head forward which will take the weight off your seat.

Horses which tip their heads up into a transition do it because you’ve stopped pushing from leg into hand. Keep your hands up and practice using your legs on every stride of the transition. Keep your fingers moving so he can’t set his jaw. You’ll soon notice the difference.

Canter to trot causes most trouble. It’s common for horses to run through the transition. Their weight falls onto their shoulders and they run on for the next eight or nine strides. The rider then gets pulled forward and takes half a circuit to regain some control. Sound familiar?

Try this.

Ride transitions from canter to trot at E or B. Prepare for the transition by sitting up and putting both legs on as you come onto the long side. Clamp your thighs and knees on at E or B, hold your hands up and nag at yourself to keep using your leg as your horse goes forward into trot. Keep your knee and thigh in until you reach the next corner marker. Then gradually release the pressure around the corner when you feel you’ve regained your control.

If your horse still runs through your transitions then ride some canter to halt transitions at E or B. Be positive. Horses do this for fun in the field. Imagine you have to halt on the end of a cliff. You’d stop then!

Be firm. Tighten the muscles in your lower back and your seat. Clamp your knees and thighs in hard and use your outside rein to back it up. Don’t forget to keep your lower leg on until he halts. Ride at least ten so he anticipates having to stop.

Now ask for canter to trot. Your horse will anticipate the halt so you should find you actually have to push on to stop him halting. Practice both to keep him guessing. If he starts to revert back to tanking in trot ask for halt as soon as you feel him start to run. It will remind him just who’s in charge.

Your horse will always be stronger than you. You can never win a pulling match. You have the benefit of knowing what you want to achieve so you can plan ahead. Use it to your advantage.

Canter - the mechanics

If you don’t have the luxury of a ménage ‘insides and outsides’ can get confusing. Your inside is the direction you are turning so if you turn left at the corner or end of the field then left is your inside. The outside is therefore the other one!

In canter your horse strikes off with the outside hind – hence your outside leg comes back to tell him which leg you want. The inside hind and outside fore go together. Last is the inside fore which is called the leading leg. This is the leg which your horse puts out to balance himself, similar to you putting your hand out to stop yourself falling. The more weight you can put onto his hocks the more balanced he'll feel and the less he'll need to lean on that shoulder.

Help your horse by sitting back and looking up as you ask for canter. Riders often lean forward and to the inside because they think it will encourage their horse to canter. All it actually does is put more weight over the leading leg putting the horse onto his forehand. This makes the canter flat and the horse fall in.

Trot to canter transitions create more problems than any other. Treat it as you would treat a walk to trot transition. The less you make of it the calmer you horse will be.

The Other Way of Stopping

Not all horses are slow off the leg. Others are too quick. In this situation it’s your arms not your legs that need the break. Your horse can only pull if he has something to pull against so you need to teach him that there are other ways of stopping.

So much is written about your lower leg but how often do you read about your upper leg? Pushed into the saddle your knee and thigh restrict the muscles that work the shoulder, automatically slowing your horse down. This means you depend less on your reins.

Warm up and try this exercise.

Start in walk.  Choose a marker to make a transition to halt. Think of your thighs and knees as a clothes peg and squeeze into your horse as hard as you can.

At first you might find he’s a bit confused by your change of style. He’ll slow down but may not be sure whether to stop. Use your reins initially just to make it clear.  When he halts be quick to praise him. It’s too easy to forget and only criticise.

Walk and halt until you can stop with just the pressure from your knee and thigh. Don’t release the pressure until you want to move on. This works on all horses and results can be instant. If you have no reaction you just need to squeeze harder.

Once you’ve mastered walk to halt try trot to walk and canter to trot. Release the pressure the second you feel the new pace. It takes some practice to be able to create smooth transitions but when you’ve really got the hang of it you can try direct transitions from trot to halt or canter to walk. Just squeeze with your upper leg until you reach the pace that you want.

Practice until it becomes second nature. Every time you want to slow down use your knee before your hand. Your horse’s mouth will appreciate it and so will your arms. In time you’ll be able to collect and lengthen just by changing the pressure from your knee but that’s something to think about another day.