Counter Canter - the easy way

Counter canter is just another type of canter, like medium or collected. It’s all about confidence. Treat it as you would your usual canter and your horse will do the same.

Most problems occur on corners, turns and changes of rein. Riders freeze if their horse becomes tense hoping to sit it out until they reach the long side. It is possible to make it without going disunited or trotting but it won’t give your horse confidence.

Freezing and taking your leg off is something all riders do at some point. When you really think about it there isn’t a single situation when it’s a help to your horse. Breaking this habit by riding forward when things get tricky will make an instant difference to your counter canter.

If corners and changes of rein are the toughest why introduce counter canter there? How often have you ridden a test where the counter canter is introduced by riding a short diagonal followed by a short stretch of counter canter to the corner marker? It’s not the end of the world but there is a much easier way to introduce it. Try this.

Practice canter transitions on the centre line. Here you can ask for both legs without confusing your horse. Keep his head and neck straight (turning his nose an inch to the inside is more than enough initially) and concentrate on your aids. You need to be clear with your legs so he is quite sure which leg you are asking for.

If you want to counter canter your horse must be able to pick up canter on a straight line. Ask for transitions on the long sides. If he can’t do this spend time teaching him. Establish your basics and everything else will be easy.

Now introduce counter canter. Get straight on the long side and ask for it. It really is that simple! Don’t change anything. Ride it exactly as you would ride any canter transition. (NB. On the right rein you’re asking for left canter so remember it’s your right leg that comes back and your left leg that asks for the strike off.)  Small changes in your weight will affect your horse. As soon as you’re in counter canter return your outside leg to its usual position.

If your horse understands your aids there’s no reason why he shouldn’t give you the leg you ask for but if he gets it wrong don’t panic. Stay calm, bring him back to trot and ask again on the next long side. When he gets it right be quick to reward him.

With the transition established you need to work on the pace. The short side is the most difficult. Cut off the corners to make it smoother for your horse and you’ll find it’s easier to get round. Aim to canter two circuits before you trot. A quick spurt of unbalanced strides will do nothing to settle your horse. Shallow corners and positive riding will give him confidence.

Counter canter is a pace not a movement. Your approach to it will have a huge effect on your horse. The longer you spend in the it the more normal it will feel. If your horse gets tense don’t freeze. Relax and ride forward. The worst that can happen is he’ll break into trot. If he stays tense he’ll do that anyway. Good luck.

There's More to Legs than Kicking

Have you ever wondered how on earth your horse knows the difference between some of the aids you give him? There’s more going on in his head than you probably give him credit for. Refining your leg aids can make things a lot clearer for him.

If you’ve read ‘The Other Way of Stopping’ you’ll know your upper leg can control your speed. Your lower leg controls energy and direction.

If you read ‘It’s in Your Hands’ you’ll know that your hands control everything in front of the saddle. Your lower leg controls everything behind it.

There are two parts to your lower leg: the inside of your calf muscle, just below your knee, and your heel. Your calf muscle is soft and should rest against your horse’s side to guide him. Your heel is hard and should only be used for orders or corrections.

Whereas your calf guides with constant ‘pushing’ pressure your heel stays off until it’s needed. It should be used quickly and sharply. If your horse is unwilling to bend or turn then a quick nudge with a heel will usually get him back on track.

When you ask for canter your outside calf should move back to tell your horse canter is coming but your inside heel should do the asking. Note the difference. The outside leg is preparing your horse for canter but your inside leg is giving the order. (See Popular posts/The Perfect Canter Transition)

To avoid working correctly your horse may swing his quarters to one side. Your calf muscles should lie against his side to keep him straight but if his quarters drift to one side move that leg back and use a quick nudge with your heel. Corrections should be short and sharp. Don’t nag! Put your leg straight back to its original position.

When you move a leg back be careful not to take it too far. A couple of inches is more than enough. Your heel should never be higher than your toe. Your horse is incredibly sensitive to your weight. Swing your leg too far back and your weight will tip to the other side. This will unbalance him and he’ll be unable to do as you ask.

This is one exercise which has little outward effect on your horse. It’s for riders rather than horses. If you’re keen to try some lateral movements spend time refining these aids. You’ll need to know how your legs work as well as your horse’s! Good luck.

Be a Lazy Rider

The best thing you can teach your horse is that legs don’t just mean “Go”. You shouldn’t have to kick for every stride.  He should continue at the same speed until you tell him otherwise. It’s easy to get into a habit of kicking every stride but eventually your horse becomes dead to it.

Become a lazy rider. Teach your horse to go forward from the slightest of squeezes. You’ll need to be consistent and patient but it will be worth it in the end.

Warm up as usual but be prepared to spend the rest of the session in walk. Once he’s picked it up you’ll find the other paces come a lot easier but trot before the penny’s dropped and you’ll be wasting your time and energy.

Start by riding large and expecting him to walk from one marker to the next without you having to kick. At each marker give him a squeeze but if he slows down before because you’re not kicking then you need to use your whip.

When you use a whip don’t dither. Use it and mean it. It’s better to use it once and get a reaction than have to use it five or six times and get half the response. Riders often feel guilty about using a whip but never worry about banging at their horses sides with their heels. Which would you prefer?

You may find initially that you have to tap him every few strides but if you’re consistent he’ll soon learn and you’ll find you’re able to get further and further without using your leg.

Your aim is to increase the distance you can go without having to kick on. All horses can learn to do this in all three paces. Their riders just have to believe it too.