Don't Fall Out - Get Even!

If your horse falls in or out do you bend him to the outside? Many riders do. In fact some seem to spend more time ‘flexing’ than they do riding forward. It works, of course, but why? It’s all to do with your contact on the outside rein – or lack of it. You take it up to flex him, balance out your contact and straighten him up. So if you’d had an even contact to start with … you get the idea.

Unlike you your horse doesn’t have a collar bone. His shoulders can go in two directions at the same time. Whatever you do with your hands he’ll do with his shoulders. Allow your hands to drift apart and so will his shoulders. 

Wherever your hands point your horse will go. Things get complicated if they point in different directions. If your left hand is ‘pointing’ to the inside but your right hand is pointing straight on that’s what he’ll do. His inside shoulder goes left but his outside shoulder (and the rest of his body) goes straight on.

If your hands are together but your rein contact is uneven it has a similar effect on your horse. If the pressure is stronger on your inside rein he’ll lean towards it. His outside shoulder has nothing to bring it round so it carries on up the track. Eventually it has to turn but by then it’s too late. In a dressage test it’s a 4. In a round of jumps it’s probably 4 faults.

If your horse falls in he turns inside the line you want him to take. It’s caused by an uneven rein contact (a stronger inside rein) or by moving your inside hand to the inside. Turn your body to show him where you want him to go. Keep your contact even in both reins. Turn his shoulders before you turn his head by moving both hands together not by putting pressure on the inside rein.

If your horse falls out his head and neck turn before his outside shoulder. He takes a wider line than you wanted. It won’t matter how much outside leg you use – if you haven’t got a contact in your outside rein he’ll still fall out.

It can seem illogical keeping hold of a rein you want your horse to move away from but think of your reins as a pair of tram lines that keep your horse’s shoulders together. Keep his shoulders between those lines and whether you want an accurate turn, a square halt or a shoulder in you’ll have a much better chance of getting it.

Don’t use your hands to make corrections to your horse’s body or quarters. Use both legs. The more forward he is the straighter he’ll be. Increase the pressure from your outside leg if he doesn’t leave the track when you ask. If he tries to cut the corner a sharp nudge with your inside heel should pick him back up again.

Practise in walk and trot on a figure of eight. Use the two long diagonals rather than two circles. The two ends of the figure of eight are half circles but forget about asking for an inside bend. Focus on keeping an even amount of weight in both reins and pushing your horse forward to it from both legs.

As you reach a corner marker turn your body towards the marker at the end of the diagonal. Your horse will copy what you do and turn. Your contact shouldn’t change. Make a conscious effort to close your fingers around your outside rein as you leave the track.

The second your horse turns onto the diagonal straighten your body and hands to straighten him. Squeeze both reins to tell him to stop turning and push forward. And don’t get any ideas about lengthening his strides! Get him back on his hocks and into your hand. Leave the medium for another day.

As you reach the other side don’t do anything. The diagonal naturally takes him onto the new rein. Hold your contact and push him forward. He’ll go into your hand and – more importantly – his shoulders will turn onto the track together.

In canter ride half 10m circles between the ¾ and ¼ lines. With a younger horse ride half 15m circles from the track to the ¾ line. The lack of track or fence will make you aware of his shoulders and straightness.

As you start the half circles focus on holding both reins. Turn your body onto the line you want to take bringing your hands round in front of you.  And look where you want to go! There is no better way of getting somewhere than looking at it.

Keep your horse’s head and neck straight in front of you until you’re sure you have total control of both sides. When you do introduce an inside bend do it by increasing the pressure from your inside leg NOT by increasing the pressure on your rein.

Many schooling problems are caused by lack of control of the shoulders. When things go wrong don’t panic. Forgetting about bend and getting your horse straight isn’t a backward step. It’s a giant leap forward towards a far more exciting level of riding.

Good luck and enjoy your schooling. 

It Works Both Ways

You’re probably familiar with the term ‘½ 10m O incline back to the track’ but when was the last time you rode one? Chances are you were practicing for a dressage test.

These are useful movements to use when you’re schooling. There are two ways to ride them. Each one creates different problems but they’re both guaranteed to improve your horse’s straightness. Once he’s straight there’s no limit to what you can do.

The obvious direction is from the track to the centre line but there’s an easier way. Try riding the ½ circle from the centre line to the track (From G to H, for example). Then ride your incline back to the centre line (D). Do the same back again so you create a figure of eight.  (½ 10m O from D to K incline back to G)

Riding in this direction takes away any problems that might arise with the ½ circle. The fence is there and will stop your horse from falling out. It’s useful but make sure you don’t depend on it. Use both legs round the curve. Then when you go in the other direction you’ll be better prepared and your horse will be paying attention.

Your turn onto the incline is important. Do it well and you’ll keep your horse straight. Get it wrong and you’ll spend the whole incline trying to straighten him up.

As you turn off the track your horse will probably assume you’re changing the rein. The angle of the incline is less than that of the long diagonal. You’ll need to be ready with your leg to stop him turning too far. Remember your hands control his shoulders not his body. Grabbing a rein in a desperate attempt to get him back on line will make matters worse not better.

It always helps if you focus on the point you are riding to. As you turn your head turn your upper body and hips round too. If your horse is concentrating he should only turn his body as far as you turn yours.

As you leave the track you want a sharp turn onto a straight line. The ½ circle stops at the marker. If you read One Step at a Time you’ll have read about thinking of your horse’s body as a ball which you throw from one leg to the other. Think of that on this turn. Use a nudge with your outside heel to push his body off the track. Use it in its usual place near the girth – you want to turn his body not his quarters. Catch him with your inside leg to stop him turning too far.

Once on the incline your horse should be straight in his head and neck as well as his body. Ride forward into a steady contact. Slowing down and fiddling is the easiest way to get a wobble. When you reach the centre line don’t hesitate. Push on round your new ½ circle and your horse will stay balanced. Hesitate and he’ll stop using his hocks and you’ll lose energy and rhythm.

A classic rider error is to lift up the inside hand on the ½ 10m O. Don’t do it! No matter where your horse is your hand position should stay the same. Your fingers may increase or release pressure but moving your hands will always affect your horse in a negative way. (See Keep in Touch & It’s in Your Hands)

Lift one hand up and your horse will lift the same shoulder. If his inside shoulder is higher than the outside his rhythm and balance will be affected. Try walking with one shoulder higher than the other. Feel what it does to your back. Imagine having to carry a rider as well?

Riding the movement in the other direction creates different problems. On the ½ 10m circle keep your eyes just ¼ of a circle ahead. Turn your head too far round and you’ll encourage your horse to turn too soon. He’ll fall in. But be careful. Without the fence to help you you’ll need plenty of outside leg to stop him falling out too.

In this direction it’s common on the incline for the horse to almost leg yield back onto the track. The line should be straight from point to point. His front feet should step into the track before his hind feet if it’s done correctly. He mustn’t swing his quarters round and sidestep into the track.

Be ready with your heel along the whole incline. If his whole body is moving across use it in its usual place by the girth. If he’s swinging his quarters round bring your heel back to straighten him.

This is a simple movement but it’s so useful. Introduce it into your schooling sessions and you’ll find it highlights any faults you may have developed. Don’t be put off by that. Problems are there to be solved. Without them schooling really would be boring!

Good luck and have fun.

A Bit of Lateral Thinking

(You may also find it useful to read – Keep in Touch, There’s More to Legs than Kicking, More Power Less Speed, It’s in Your hands, Get Straight to the Point)

Most riders have been tanked off with at some time or another. It doesn’t mean your horse has bolted or taken off. It simply means he’s doing what you asked him to do but at his own pace.

You know the type of thing. You go from canter to trot and your horse unceremoniously sets his neck and tanks to one end of the arena before your caller has had a chance to suggest that you “Circle at E, 20 metres.” Or you turn for a fence and he sticks his head down ploughing towards the jump at a speed worthy of a rocket. Ok, he jumps it but, really, wouldn’t it have looked so much better if you weren’t leaning back pulling his teeth out all the way in?

There will have been times like those that you’ve laughed about, others may have put the wind up you or frustrated you but there’s one type of tanking that you might not even have noticed. The lateral tank.

A lateral tank happens with horses of all levels. Similar to any other tank the horse is asked to do a movement, ignores any attempt to control him, and hurries through it because he thinks he knows best. It’s easy to be ‘grateful’ and sit it out until you get to the end of the movement but it won’t be correct. Does this ring a bell with you? Perhaps you didn’t know you were doing it. Now you do try asking for one step at a time.

The ability to stop a lateral movement half way through is something every rider should be able to do. Think of lateral work as a pace not a movement. If you were trotting round the school and your horse got strong you’d do something about it, right? Be brave enough to do the same in leg yield or shoulder in.

Too many riders rush round a corner and throw their horse straight into a lateral movement. Slow down! Give yourself and your horse time to think. Get straight before you even think of going sideways. Take half a long side if you have to. If you’re not straight before you ask how can you know if he’s moving correctly?

Hands cause the majority of faults in lateral work. Kept together and level they’ll have little effect but drop one, tighten up or pull back and your horse is guaranteed to resist. Resistance creates tension. If your horse is tense there’s no way he can step forwards correctly let alone sideways.

Whatever your movement – even a turn on the forehand – start off with just one step and ride out of it. Don’t be in a rush to do a whole long side of shoulder in, a 180’ pirouette or turn on the forehand. One step done correctly is a far greater achievement and it will create a solid foundation for your future lateral work.

You’ll need to be strong with your outside leg to stop your horse setting his shoulder and rushing away from your inside leg. If he ignores it carry your whip in your outside hand and don’t be afraid to use it. Older well schooled horses can think they know best and plough on regardless. A sharp nudge with your outside heel and a tap with the whip should be enough to get their attention back on you.

Never worry about spoiling a movement because you have to correct something. You’ll ruin that movement but the next one will be better. That’s why you school your horse. Making a correction midway is far more beneficial than sitting it out and trying again next time. If you don’t correct how can your horse understand what you want? If he was cantering on the wrong lead would you complete the circle or ask him to trot and start again? Lateral work is no different.

When you start out on to the lateral path it’s an exciting time. Be proud of yourself for reaching that level but don’t be in awe of it. Remember the days when you were first taught to canter? You were probably nervous but you got through it. You weren’t told to canter three circuits of the school when you first learnt either! You took one step at a time. Do that laterally and you’ll never look back.

Good luck and enjoy your schooling.

There's More to Legs than Kicking

Have you ever wondered how on earth your horse knows the difference between some of the aids you give him? There’s more going on in his head than you probably give him credit for. Refining your leg aids can make things a lot clearer for him.

If you’ve read ‘The Other Way of Stopping’ you’ll know your upper leg can control your speed. Your lower leg controls energy and direction.

If you read ‘It’s in Your Hands’ you’ll know that your hands control everything in front of the saddle. Your lower leg controls everything behind it.

There are two parts to your lower leg: the inside of your calf muscle, just below your knee, and your heel. Your calf muscle is soft and should rest against your horse’s side to guide him. Your heel is hard and should only be used for orders or corrections.

Whereas your calf guides with constant ‘pushing’ pressure your heel stays off until it’s needed. It should be used quickly and sharply. If your horse is unwilling to bend or turn then a quick nudge with a heel will usually get him back on track.

When you ask for canter your outside calf should move back to tell your horse canter is coming but your inside heel should do the asking. Note the difference. The outside leg is preparing your horse for canter but your inside leg is giving the order. (See Popular posts/The Perfect Canter Transition)

To avoid working correctly your horse may swing his quarters to one side. Your calf muscles should lie against his side to keep him straight but if his quarters drift to one side move that leg back and use a quick nudge with your heel. Corrections should be short and sharp. Don’t nag! Put your leg straight back to its original position.

When you move a leg back be careful not to take it too far. A couple of inches is more than enough. Your heel should never be higher than your toe. Your horse is incredibly sensitive to your weight. Swing your leg too far back and your weight will tip to the other side. This will unbalance him and he’ll be unable to do as you ask.

This is one exercise which has little outward effect on your horse. It’s for riders rather than horses. If you’re keen to try some lateral movements spend time refining these aids. You’ll need to know how your legs work as well as your horse’s! Good luck.

The Correct Lead - Can You Tell?

When you first learn to canter you’re taught to ask in a corner because it helps to put your horse on the correct lead. Once you’re more confident make things harder by asking for canter at E or B. Without the benefit of the corner your horse may give you the wrong lead.

The correct lead feels comfortable. The movement rocks you from back to front like a rocking horse. When it’s wrong the movement rocks you from side to side and can be almost impossible to sit to.

Some riders can naturally feel when things are wrong. If you can’t don’t worry. Look down at the shoulders. The leading (inside) foreleg moves on its own. It stretches further forward than the other to help your horse to balance. When you’re correct the inside shoulder moves further forward than the outside. It takes time to see it. Practice cantering round the school. The more you practice the easier and quicker you’ll spot it.  

Just to complicate things horses can also canter disunited. Instead of a diagonal pair, one side of legs move together. In this case the inside shoulder may well be moving further forward than the outside but the canter still doesn’t feel ‘quite right’. If in doubt, trot and start again. It’s not the end of the world to be cantering round the school disunited or even on the wrong leg but it will certainly make your life more comfortable if you get it right.

Riders often slip to the inside when they ask for canter. By using your inside leg to ask him to strike off (see The Perfect Canter transition) you should be sitting squarer in the saddle. To make sure put a pole on the inside track opposite E or B. Ask for canter as you ride past. Lean to the inside and your horse will strike off in that direction – as if he’s going to start a circle. The pole will make you more aware of it.

How quickly can you tell which leg you’re on? Test yourself by asking for canter on the centre line. Look straight down the centre line and be clear with your aids. Have faith in your horse. Ride the transition exactly as you would in a corner. There’s absolutely no reason for him to give you the wrong leg.